2 CommentsOn an episode of WTTW's "Chicago Tonight" a couple years ago, host Bob Sirott used his closing monologue to discuss "the best egg roll in Chicago". Before the words came out, I knew right away what he would say because I, too, had eaten the best egg roll around and I knew that there was no disputing where it could be found: Kow Kow.
Yes, the best egg roll in Chicago is in Lincolnwood.
I am not saying this because I grew up with this egg roll and I want to wax nostalgic (I place little value in culinary nostalgia). I don't like egg rolls. They're greasy, tasteless, and generally full of over-cooked mush. But the egg roll at Kow Kow is an entirely different beat. The wrapper is crispy on the outside and soft in the middle. The filling has big chunks of flavor: noticeable hunks of pork and bok choy. It completely lacks the peanut butter binder that's so common in this style of egg roll, a flavor which I feel clashes with the filling (I don't like the idea of a fried peanut butter, pork, and veggie sandwich).
Kow Kow is not authentic Chinese food. It's "time warp", Ameri-Chinese food, circa 1958. It's a chop suey palace that's been serving it the exact same way for decades. Sometime in the mid-eighties, the Kow Kow that I remember moved from Devon Ave to Lincolnwood, where it resides today, still run by the same family. (I don't think their list of cocktails has changed in 50 years either).
Dinner at Kow Kow is all about the dishes that you couldn't (or shouldn't) order in an authentic Chinese restaurant: sweet and sour chicken, Hong Kong steak, egg foo yung, and chop suey by the bowl-full. And those big, crispy, tasty egg rolls.
Check out the egg roll at Kow Kow Restaurant, 6755 N. Cicero Ave (at Pratt), Lincolnwood, IL 60712, 847-677-7717, big parking lot, full bar. Get some pork fried rice while you're at it.
0 CommentsIn today's Chicago Tribune "Good Eating" section (subscriber's only article), Robin Mather Jenkins writes about the possibility of a permanent public market in Chicago, akin to the new Milwaukee Public Market and other older markets across the country. The article praises the idea and quotes Kathleen Dickhut, Chicago's acting deputy commissioner of planning and development, saying "The city is considering a year-round public market," but "it's far too premature to say `yes, this will happen.' "
I can't think of a better idea to strengthen the food culture in this city, especially in the wake of a recent food ban. I also find it a little ridiculous that a city of this size doesn't have a year-round public marketplace.
If you'd like to see Chicago have it's own Pike Place or Ferry Market, then speak up. Call your alderman or the Mayor's office and ask them to make this a priority.
0 CommentsI recently dined at two different BYOB restaurants in the same general price range but with vastly different styles. Neither would grab my highest recommendation, but both show strong promise.
May St. Cafe, (not to be confused with May Street Market on Grand), is a recently-remodeled pan-Latino restaurant on the industrial strip of Cermak near Chinatown and Pilsen. Executive Chef Mario Santiago and Chef Lupe Aguilar bring a lot of energy to the room and to the menu that offers traditional and nuevo dishes, focusing on Mexican, Cuban, and Puerto Rican influences. My most recent meal covered two of those three with a bowl of evenly spiced tortilla soup and a heaping plate of tender lechon asado (Cuban roast pork). The pork was satisfying, as was the fresh piece of escolar in a mango salsa that my wife ordered. To help cover the Puerto Rican aspect of the dinner, we also polished off a basket of freshly-fried tostones with garlic oil. The unfortunate drawback to the meal is an unfocused attention to the plate and the balance of the meal. Each dish was massive, nearly overflowing the sides of the plate. The soup was a bowl so large that our waitress couldn't bring it to us without sloshing it around. I could barely even make a dent in the entire avocado half, mound of sour cream, and handful of chicken and tortilla strips that crowded the broth. The salad was simply a mess. The three slabs of pork were almost impossible to cut on my plate due to the fact that they were so crowded by the variety of sides. This heavy-handed approach to plating turned what would have been a fun, comforting meal into a tiring, somewhat tedious affair.Chef Mario is warm and welcoming to his guests and both he and Chef Lupe show that they have skills both as chefs and restaurateurs. If they can dial back their plating and consider the diner's experience, I think they'll have a huge success on their hands.
Terragusto, is an Italian cafe that opened earlier this year featuring handmade pastas and sustainable, local, and organically-grown ingredients. Their approach to dining reflects the Italian inspiration of the menu, offering customers smaller, varied courses in an antipasti-primi-secondi progression. The secondi, or meat course, is designed to be shared, as are many of the antipasti (appetizers). The real star of the show here is the house-made pastas, especially the tagliatelle bolognese featuring expertly made ribbons of pasta with a rich and flavorful meat sauce. This is among the best pasta dishes I have had in Chicago. Unfortunately, the dishes that surround the pasta leave a little something to be desired. All use top quality ingredients, but many showed a heavy hand with butter and salt. This, coupled with their comparatively high price tag, made me question the value in an immediate return trip.
In spite of the less-than-ideal courses, Terragusto's talent with pasta will buoy them into becoming a mainstay in their neighborhood.
Check out May St. Cafe at 1146 W. Cermak, 312-421-4442. Free parking lot available, reservations recommended, BYOB. Open for lunch (Mon. - Sat.) and dinner (Tues. - Sat.)
Check out Terragusto at 1851 W. Addison, 773-248-2777. Street parking available, BYOB. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner (Wed. - Sun.).
1 CommentsI've recently learned from LTHForum member johnny that the Edward Don Outlet on Elston is closing its doors in a couple weeks. This is a severe blow for budget-minded, serious home cooks on the near-NW side of the city. There were many deals to be had at Don (if you hit them during one of their frequent sales), and it has been my go-to place for inexpensive, less common simple kitchen items like cheese cloth or cardboard cake rounds.
Don's selection, easy parking, and location made it my favorite for years. It will be missed. (Chef's Catalog on Clark has also recently closed).
My backup is now my primary: Northwestern Cutlery has a strong kitchen supply selection.
There are some serious deals to be had at Don for the next couple weeks.
Edward Don Outlet 2525 N. Elston, 773-489-7739
Northwestern Cutlery 810 W. Lake St., 888-248-4449
3 CommentsHoney 1 BBQ has been open at their new location on Western for over six months now. The Chicago food-media shine has turned its collective eye towards newer, shinier offerings. I've been eating Honey 1's BBQ for a while now, and I take a basket of tips and links over a dinner at the latest small-plate-concept-restaurant of the month, on any night.
After re-locating last year from the Austin neighborhood to the edge of Bucktown, Robert Adams Sr. has been manning his aquarium-style smoker with the precision of a clock-maker. This isn't Chicago-style boil-and-bake "bbq", this is real BBQ: slow and low over real wood with real smoke.
Robert Adams Sr. at the Smoker
The menu is pretty broad, but the focus for me is the "combo": a basket of smoky rib tips with just the right amount of chew and seasoning. Mixed into the tips are sections of hot links: spicy, seasoned sausages with just enough sage to evoke the flavor of a breakfast sausage. While the sauce is quite good (not too sweet at all), I recommend getting the combo with sauce on the side. I need BBQ sauce on good BBQ just as much as I need grated parmesan on good pizza: not at all.
Honey 1 Rib Tip and Hot Link Combo (sauce on the side)
There's a lot more to enjoy on this menu like slabs of spare ribs (if the tips weren't enough), deep-fried chicken wings (using the full wing), smoked turkey legs, a newly-added pulled pork sandwich, fries, fried okra, and more. My usual order is a large combo (which comes with fries). If there are more people with me, I'll add some ribs and maybe some wings to that order. The wings are rocket-hot, right out of the fryer, beware.
Honey 1 is no-frills dining at it's finest. No utensils, nothing fancy. Robert Jr. runs the front operations while his father is manning the smoker, and he keeps the place moving smoothly in a friendly, welcoming manner.
So, why write about Honey 1 now? Because it shocks me that they're not packed to the rafters, people I meet still haven't heard of the place, and that other people are still telling me that Fat Willy's has the best BBQ in that area. (Fat Willy's is a nice place with some good items, but they're not even in the same league as the Adams family). This is the best BBQ on the north side of the city, by far, and among the best in town.
Summer is coming and in my mind summer = BBQ. Not just grilling, but real BBQ. If you haven't learned to do it yourself, get your tail over to Honey 1. This is one of those gems in town that should be chock full of people, and it isn't.
Honey 1
2241 N Western
Chicago, IL
773-227-5130
Street parking is generally available. No booze and not BYOB, so have some BBQ and then walk up to Quenchers or down to the Map Room afterwards (it makes for a nice one-two combo, trust me). Honey 1 will cater large amounts of BBQ for your parties.
Photos courtesy of Gary Wiviott.
