March 18, 2005 | Comments

Soon after my recent entry entitled Two Spoon Visits, I found myself at TAC Quick Thai Kitchen with a group that included the previously mentioned "Erik M". TAC is located a few doors south of the Sheridan Red Line stop and one of Chicago's most authentic, comfortable, and fascinating Thai eateries.

Erik is an extremely thorough expert on Thai food, as well as other aspects of Thai language and culture. He guided me through our meal which included items from the Thai language menu, that evening's special menu, as well as other items not on any menu that night. Some dishes included ingredients that Erik produced through hours of work in his own kitchen. The array of flavors was outstanding.

A week later, I returned with only myself and Ms. EC so she could try some of the food that I had been raving about night after night.

Below are some of the highlights. I am using Erik's exact translations. Most of these dishes are available on TAC's translated Thai menu:

sai krawk isaan: A Northern-Thai fermented pork sausage made with sticky rice and aromatics such as garlic and onion, among others. The sausage is fried, sliced, and served with a wedge of cabbage for wrapping the. Ginger, peanuts and chiles are used for garnish. TAC is one of only a couple places in town that makes this sausage themselves and the quality shows. The range of flavors in this simple dish is impressive, from the richness of the pork to the unique, pleasant sourness that (I assume) is from the short fermentation. The garnishes, especially the small chiles, really put this over the top. I had this item during both visits and I'd be hard-pressed to visit TAC again without ordering it. After my two visits, I think I'm almost ready to proclaim TAC's sai krawk isaan the most perfect appetizer in the city.

kai thawt: (also known as fried chicken). I had this same dish at Spoon. Both were excellent, but the pungent, sweet sauce that TAC served put them over the top. Crispy on the outside, juicy in the middle, and a sauce that'll make you lick the bowl. What's not to love?

yam kra-phao plaa: A salad that is punctuated by it's main ingredient, fried fish maw. This is yet another excellent way to start off a meal. The fish maw is crispy and light and is surrounded by fresh flavors (contrasting hot and sour seem to fill my memory).

kra-phrao krawp kai raat khai yiaw mua: Minced chicken and deep-fried holy basil over preserved egg. The presentation of this dish is astounding. The little crispy garnish leaves of fried basil surround a beautiful mound of minced chicken. Hidden beneath the chicken, and flavor are rich preserved eggs. These three textures and flavors would be simple and perhaps uninteresting on their own, but the 1-2-3 combo is deeply satisfying.

Two curries: kaeng muu tay poh is an orange curry with water spinach. This is not always available (check the specials). It's served simply in a small bowl and is truly sublime. I also tried the green curry over an omelette, kaeng khiaw-waan khai jiaw, also excellent. This included buttery pork, Thai eggplant and a rich, green curry over a plate sized omelette.

These few dishes should get you started, but there's a whole world to explore on their Thai menu. Simply ask the waitress for the Thai menu and you'll get an easy-to-read translated menu full of dozens of items complete with a "Don't Miss" section that's going to keep me busy for a while.

TAC doesn't miss a beat. They clearly take pride in authenticity, flavor, and presentation. Forget what you think you know about Thai food and start exploring this one accessible restaurant. It couldn't be more enjoyable. I have already thanked Erik multiple times for his guidance, hard work, and patience. The best way to thank him is to use the menu at TAC and explore authentic Thai cuisine. He didn't do this work for money, fame, or recognition. He did it out of sheer passion and enjoyment that he wants to share with anyone who might enjoy it. So, get out there and enjoy it.

Check out TAC Quick Thai Kitchen at 3930 N. Sheridan, 773-327-5253, BYOB.

You can find photos, translated menus and plenty of discussion about TAC by searching LTHForum.com for "TAC".


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