There are many qualities that people weigh when evaluating restaurants: food, service, value, and atmosphere, among others. (Each of these can be broken down into a variety of subcategories). Most people weigh these qualities in a different manner. For example, I do not put too much weight on service; If you have unbelievable food, I'll endure horrible service, but I won't sit down for a bad meal no matter how good the service is.

Once in a while, a restaurant hits the "sweet spot" between all of the available qualities. Everything is in balance. Each quality complements the experience without being overbearing or calling attention to itself. The food is delicious, the price is right, the service is personal and paced properly, and the atmosphere complements everything else. Each of these elements contributes to an overall intangible quality that makes everything just a little bit better. You know that a restaurant has hit the sweet spot when you walk out and think, "that place is doing it right".

I would say that 1 in 50 restaurants really hits the sweet spot for me (giving me the idea to keep a list).

Bruna's Ristorante hits the sweet spot.

Bruna's is located on the strip of Oakley between 24th and 25th, Chicago's "Heart of Italy". They've been serving basic Italian food for decades: big bowls of pasta, eggplant parmigiana, tiramisu, bottle of red. You get the idea.

On a recent visit on a Saturday night, we were brought into the dining room which was close to full but did not feel crowded. The place is intimate and comfortable. The whole room was having a good time, lending to a celebratory, but subdued, atmosphere. Specials are written on a chalk-board next to a reverent photo of whom I can only guess is Bruna.

After ordering a bottle of their cheapest chianti and digging into some crusty bread, we decided to split an appetizer. I asked how the portabella mushroom was prepared. Our waitress described the simple dish and then offered "Portabella alla Bruna" which was not on the menu. Thick slices of mushroom were served with chunks of creamy polenta in a dark gravy that made my knees weak.

For entrees we had two standards: spaghetti carbonara and eggplant parm. Both dishes hit the mark perfectly. Fresh ingredients in the right proportions. Big flavors. Italian comfort food at its best. The eggplant flavors really came through in the parm, and the carbonara was sauced perfectly and studded with excellent bits of prosciutto. When the bowl of pasta came out, I thought that there was no way I was going to finish it. Fifteen minutes later, it was gone.

We split the tiramisu dessert, which is not usually one of my favorites. This was a very nice preparation. Not too sweet, very fresh and moist.

I wouldn't call Bruna's cheap eats, but I would call it a good value. There's a broad range of prices, so you could easily go in and spend anywhere from $20-$50 per person, depending on what you choose and how much wine you drink. (They have a nice wine list that's worth exploration).

Everything about dinner at Bruna's felt special. Great food, comfortable service, and an atmosphere that felt relaxing and celebratory at the same time. I walked out thinking, "this place does it right". Bruna's hits the sweet spot.

Bruna's Ristorante is located at 2424 S. Oakley (773) 254-5550. Make a reservation on the weekends. Street parking is possible, valet service also available.

We've been to Bruna's 2-3 times and always left full and happy. The portions are gigantic. The antipasti platter of meats and cheeses is enough to forgo the entree, if you're into that, and they'll add vegetables if you ask them (not that I did, but my wife wanted some).

Additionally, the canoli (sp?) was the best I've ever had. Ridiculous.

The place was never overly busy in our visits, but it seems like there is always a group getting good and drunk (me, too, but I hold my booze in public). Likely a coincidence, tho.

Posted by: Tim at October 26, 2004 1:15 PM

Bruna's was one of my Italian grandfather's favorite places (his favorite "fancy" place, as he would say) and one of the things I learned from him was to ask the waitron what was good. About half the time it was an excellent side dish (like your mushrooms) and there were frequently entree recommendations that were nice variations on the specials.

What a great place.

Too bad Febo, which used to be around the corner, is gone.

Posted by: Mark at October 26, 2004 4:47 PM

Ignotz's is very good as well. Newer, but the food is great.

Posted by: at January 22, 2005 8:36 AM

We went to Bruna's tonight on your recommendation. What a wonderful place! We've been searching for really good, simple Italian food for ... forever, and we've finally found it.

All four of us asked the waiter for his recommendation from a few options, and he gave each one of us immediate and firm answers. We were all delighted. We had: mushroom ravioli, chicken parmesan, gnocchi with meat sauce, and scallops linguine with cream sauce. And as noted above, the portions are gigantic; I will be enjoying leftovers for the next couple of days.

Thanks, EatChicago, for a fantastic pointer. Can't wait to try Bhabi's Kitchen next.

-- James

Posted by: James at March 20, 2005 10:25 PM