Chef Paul Virant's recent national accolades have spurred me into finally writing up the meal that Cookie and I enjoyed at Vie two months ago. Neither of us had ever been to Vie before, although I had read a lot about. I entered the evening with very high expectations, which can often be a harbinger of disappointment.
Vie's goals of locally sourced, seasonal, artisanal ingredients have become trendy goals. I think you would be hard-pressed to find a chef behind a new restaurant that doesn't consider seasonality and locality an important part of their menu. Unfortunately, there are very few restaurants that are committed enough to carry this philosophy successfully into their menu beyond one or two dishes. If I could eat free from grossly out-of-season dishes at restaurants that proclaim seasonality, I would never go hungry. Fall asparagus and winter tomatoes are all too common.
We dined at Vie in February, which presents particular challenges for a midwestern chef dedicated to local seasonality. Where less ambitious restaurateurs would have tabled their philosophy for the season (except for a root vegetable stew or something equally predictable), Virant confronts his guests with the centuries-old fact that much of winter's seasonal food is cured from earlier harvests. The bountiful months were behind us and in front of us, so we enjoyed the the preserved harvest.
The menu from this cold night in early February featured an array of charcuterie that would make Rhulman swoon; a variety of pickled and preserved vegetables and fruit; marmalades and jams; greenhouse winter baby greens; and fresh local beans, turnips, parsnips, and other root vegetables that brought the full round, flavor of winter.
For my first course I had a coddled egg with winter black truffles, grilled bread, and a thin slice of house-made country ham. This was a dish that I could eat for breakfast daily and never tire of it. The richness and simplicity of a farm-fresh egg paired with the more aggressive ingredients of truffle and country ham made up one of the best dishes I've eaten a long time. I've re-lived it in my head nearly every day since I've eaten it.
Cookie enjoyed a plate of seared scallops* with black rice and a pickled fennel salad. I tasted it and found it to be a well-conceived and expertly prepared dish, but not to my taste.
My entree was a "cassoulet". Make special note of the quotes, which were on the menu, as this was not a traditional cassoulet. This mock-cassoulet was a hearty plate of roasted fresh bacon, grilled house-made pork sausage, braised beans, and roasted local turnips. When it was placed in front of me at the perfect angle for me to take in the beauty of a slab of roasted pork belly atop beans and turnips, I was surprised that I forgot all about my coddled egg. The dish was hearty, full of distinct flavors, and constructed with enough variety to keep you interested throughout every bite.
My wife's entree, which I almost ignored due to my eye-popping plate of pork and beans, was a crispy fillet of sea bass with parsnip puree, roasted onions, and house-made guanciale--another appearance of Vie's focus on charcuterie. This was another dish that, while I tasted only a small bite, had a hard time seeing any flaw in.
I washed it all down with a glass of port and some local cheeses while Cookie enjoyed Virant's signature dessert, gooey butter cake.
I am often worried when I have high expectations. I know that I am the type of diner that is easy to please but difficult to impress, and when I have high expectations I fear that it will take a miracle to impress me. Virant impressed me as soon as I read the menu and continued to impress me throughout the entire meal. I look forward to returning soon.
Vie Restaurant is located at 4471 Lawn Ave. in Western Springs, 708-246-2082
*It is important to understand that Vie's goal is not to exclusively serve locally sourced ingredients.
Tags: fine dining Post a comment
