October 4, 2006 | Comments

There are excellent neighborhood bars in Chicago. These places serve good beer, going beyond the basics to tap a few interesting kegs. These places treat you like a regular even if you just stop in once in a blue moon. Every time you have a drink at one of these places you wonder why you don't come back more often.

There are excellent neighborhood restaurants in Chicago. These places serve a plate of food that tastes like it was put together with care, forethought, talent, and good ingredients. The food is comforting at these places. Every time you eat at one of these places you wonder why you don't come back more often.

Rarely do these two types of places intersect. The great neighborhood bar that serves that special plate of food is pretty rare. Sure, there are bars that make good wings (Bird's Nest), grill a decent burger (Jury's), or fry up a good plate of fish and chips (Chief O'Neils), but when you find the neighborhood bar that's hiding something special inside, you've really struck gold.

Kuma's Corner has been pouring pints and serving food in Avondale for well over a year now. My first visit took place not long after they opened. They had not yet received their liquor license. The menu was predictable bar food with a couple twists. The food was hit or miss. It's no wonder that it took me over a year to return.

A liquor license, a bartender who knows his beer, and a new chef have turned Kuma's into that special kind of corner bar that we all want in our neighborhood. The beer selection is interesting and thoughtful. The staff is welcoming. The menu now takes simple bar food to another level and provides an bit of Italian flair.

The seared scallop appetizer is a testament to the joys of a simple seafood preparation. The chicken saltimbocca is a classic, full of flavor and executed well. The Kuma's Burger is the ultimate bar burger--8oz of angus with cheddar cheese, bacon, and a fried egg served on a pretzel roll. The "make your own" mac and cheese (choose your ingredients) and specials like broiled lamb chops keep the menu interesting.

Behind the bar, the selection of bottled domestic micro brews and Belgian ales is impressive and the six taps are used wisely on interesting rotating selections. Recently, excellent beers from local brewery Two Brothers and Petaluma, California brewery Lagunitas have been featured selections.

If they only poured pints of beer, Kuma's would be a great neighborhood bar. The selections are terrific, the staff is great, and the place is comfortable. (Those who don't appreciate aggressive music may not find it as comfortable as I do).

If they only served food, Kuma's would be a darn good comfort-food cafe.

Fortunately they do both. They've quickly become one of my favorite bars in town.

Check out Kuma's Corner, 2900 W. Belmont (at Francisco) in Chicago. 773-604-8769. Street parking.

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