There are a lot of things that I like about the lush Nuevo Latino and contemporary Mexican dining landscape in Chicago (in spite of the recent closing of Chilpancingo):
- I like that the stalwart of the genre, Bayless' Frontera Grill/Topolobampo is still going strong and still working at a very high level.
- I like that the selection of restaurants has expanded to some of Chicago's less flashy neighborhoods with the opening of places like Dorado, Fonda del Mar, and May St. Cafe.
- I like that these restaurants introduce less adventurous diners to a new realm of cooking styles and ingredients that may prompt them to explore some of the more authentic offerings in town.
- I like that Chicago does this as good, if not better than anyone else in the country. It's part of the fabric of the city, and visitors to Chicago often have one or more of these restaurants on their "must eat" list while they're here.
- I like that the restaurants like that grew out of Bayless' innovations can find a great deal of success. There is a hunger for this kind of cooking in Chicago. In particular I really like Salpicón.
Salpicón has existed for a decade, an eternity in the restaurant business, and the Satkoffs have received a wall full of awards and good reviews. During a recent visit there, I left with no doubt that those plaudits were well deserved.
The menu at Salpicón, food and drink, is impressive and enticing. The set menu offers a nice array of familiar or authentic dishes like chiles rellenos, tinga poblana, and pollo en mole. I am particularly fond of the chiles: two poblanos, one stuffed with a flavorful pork picadillo and one stuffed with Chihuahua cheese, both perfectly fried, served with a smoky tomato broth and a side of herb-studded beans.
The specials menu, which changes weekly, offers more imaginative and creative plates. Prawns wrapped in crispy sweet potato strands (langostino con salsa cruda) are bright and crisp, served over a cold corn and chile salsa that provides a interesting contrast of flavor and temperature. An earthy dish of four types of mushrooms in a mild chile sauce (hongos para taquear) creates an exotic vegetarian-style version of the classic northern Mexican dish carne en chile colorado.
The wine list is a massive tome, complete with a table of contents. I prefer to skip to the back page and choose from their list of wines by the glass, which offers varietals that are not commonly offered by the glass. (The specials menu also offers printed wine recommendations.) Beyond wine, they have an equally impressive tequila list. My only disappointment in the drinks department is the dispenser for the lime juice used in the margaritas, which is the same type of unit that hot dog stands use to dispense lemonade. These are the sacrifices restaurants must make in the interest of turnover and efficiency.As if I wasn't impressed enough with the food and wine, the service is top-notch, enthusiastic, knowledgeable, and smooth. The staff at Salpicón works like a well-oiled machine, making it very easy to enjoy yourself there.
Salpicón is one of the key reasons that I love Nuevo Latino and contemporary Mexican dining in Chicago.
Check out Salpicón at 1252 N. Wells in Chicago, 312-988-7811, www.salpicon.com. Valet parking available. Reservations recommended.
Tags: fine dining mexican old town Post a comment
