I had the pleasure this weekend of making my second trip to Opera, Paul Wildermuth and Arun Sampanthavivat's acclaimed contemporary Chinese restaurant in the South Loop.
The first thing that will make an impression on you at Opera is the decor, but that will be quickly overshadowed by the food. Opera is hip, eye catching, and loud. The menu quickly lives up to the ambiance.
In my two trips, I had totally different dishes. Morel mushroom wontons, sticky mongolian lamb ribs, lobster spring rolls, and 5 spice ribs (I like ribs) were all excellent starters. This weekend, we were served an amuse-bouche of a delicious tuna beggar's purse.
I never know exactly how to order the entrees and sides, so I always order a little too much and take some home (a good policy). For duck fans, the crowning achievement at Opera is the "Three Preparation" duck. The duck is split into three entirely different dishes. The whole red snapper (Hunan-style) is crispy, flavorful, and fun to pick at with chopsticks. Surprisingly good was the chicken and mushroom stir-fry, traditional and simple but delicious (and made the best leftovers). Wildermuth does an excellent job of updating and enhancing many classic Chinese dishes. The flavors are always a little familiar but fresh and interesting at the same time.I would rate the service at Opera as "very good", a few steps shy of excellent.
Of particular note at Opera are the old film vaults in the back of the restaurant that have been converted to semi-private booths. The booths are a nice way to have a more romantic dinner, while still experiencing some of the upbeat mood of the dining room. If you request one of these booths during a reservation, you're not guaranteed one, but you'll be next in line when you arrive for your reservation. This weekend we showed up early for our reservation and drank martinis at the bar until the next booth opened up. The dinner made it worth the wait.
Bottom line: For my money, Opera is one of the best restaurants in Chicago.
Check out Opera at 1301 S. Wabash, 312-461-0161, www.opera-chicago.com. Valet and street parking, reservations strongly recommended. Tell us your thoughts in the comments.
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