March 28, 2004 | Comments

Mexican food is generally not my first choice when choosing a cuisine. With the exception of Rick Bayless, there are not too many chef/owners in Chicago trying to offer you a unique or interesting experience. On the other hand, what city is better equipped to offer a surprising hidden gem that is unlike any Mexican restaurant I've been to before?

El Barco, Mariscos is a lively Mexican restaurant on Ashland, specializing in seafood. The place is bright, loud, and fun. It almost feels like you're eating on board a party boat. ("El Barco" means "The Boat" in English).
The cusine is primarily seafood. A wide variety of fish, shrimp, and squid dishes populate the giant menu along with a couple dozen different types of margaritas and tequila drinks.

Last night, I had the huachinango veracruzana, a whole red snapper deep-fried and dressed in a spicy olive and pepper sauce. The fish arrives completely whole, cooked to perfection, and standing up straight on the plate (The same fish can be ordered with one of many different sauces). Other diners at our table had crab legs, a plate of whole crawfish in garlic, halibut in a mild red sauce, and mahi mahi steamed in an avocado sauce. We started everything off with mouth-watering skillets of grilled octopus and calamari, along with some raw oysters. To accompany the meal, the table is full of more bottles of hot sauce than you need, a ton of tiny limes, and three different homemade salsas and pico de gallo.

El Barco also offers a dish which looks fun, but I have yet to taste. Parillada de mariscos is a hot grill brought to your table where diners grill their own seafood and meats. Have you had it? Let us know in the "Comments" below.

Service was friendly and prompt, considering the crowd, and the price was very affordable. I had the whole fish, a couple margaritas (from a pitcher), and tasted three appetizers for less than $30, with tip. Portions are huge, you won't go home hungry.

One tip: This place gets crowded and there isn't too much room to stand around and wait. I'd recommend trying El Barco on an off-night. Also, the seating doesn't really work for a group bigger than 6.

Check out El Barco at 1035 N. Ashland (at Cortez), 773-486-6850. Limited parking across the street, street parking pretty easy.

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